NYT Article on the Best Restaurants in Munich
A Wellspring of the New German Cuisine
By GISELA WILLIAMS
CHEW on this: Contrary to the popular belief that German food revolves around thick sausages, potatoes and enormous mugs of beer, the 2007 Michelin Red Guide awarded nine restaurants in Germany its three stars.
Spain, which has been considered Europe’s gastronomic trailblazer in recent years, lagged behind with just six top-rated restaurants. In fact, Germany beat out all European countries except France.
The land of sauerkraut and spätzle, it seems, is finally getting a little culinary respect. And while each region of Germany offers its own tastes, it’s in southern Germany where those Michelin stars really sparkle.
Chefs young and old are parsing their Teutonic heritage for new flavors, rather than reciting French or Spanish techniques for haute effect. Farms are embracing heirloom vegetables and ancient breeds of livestock. And in Bavaria, Germany’s largest state geographically, kitchens are lightening up on cream and butter, and elevating traditional dishes into modern creations.
Perhaps it’s no surprise that one of the best places to taste this neue deutsche küche, or new German cuisine, as well as the old is in Munich, the prosperous and buzzing capital of Bavaria. “A chef can afford to do something more extravagant and exclusive where the money is,” said Mario Lohninger, the chef at the futuristic Silk restaurant in Frankfurt.
Continued on nytimes.com
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